Wednesday, May 23, 2007

More about Dharamsala - II

First Glimpse

We looked for a suitable hotel near the main market. It frequently happens that the hotels in central place in small towns are not ideal, with regard to the facilites and the view their rooms offer, but we have learnt from past experience that it is better to stay in the central places in small hill towns like this. You may get a luxurious room with a magnificent view in a resort in one of the neighboring villages, but it limits your options specially if you are not in a group or do not have your own vehicle - you cannot venture out after the dark, you cannot take walks in mornings and evenings, and you have no option but to have your dinner in the hotel itself.

So, after a few tries, we found an acceptable hotel, and a room facing the open valley. We had planned to take some rest after the long journey, but after freshening up, we felt it was not a good time to sleep, and ventured out to have brunch and look around. After a sumptuous breakfast of 'paranthas', we strolled towards central circle. This was where the taxi had dropped us earlier, and which also serves as the bus stand [though there is hardly any place for a bus to stand ;-)]. From this centre, many radial roads extend in different direction.
- The main connecting road to Dharamsala (and the outer world!)
- One through the tibetan residential area to dharamkot
- One to Bhagsunag
- Two through the market, one of them leading to more residential areas
- One by the side of the hill to the Dalai Lama temple
- One narrow, steep lane to a monastery (couldn't catch the name) in the valley
- One small road that was being used as the local taxi stand, but which which continued to the villages beyond

McLeodGanj

We took one of the roads - at that time, we did not realize where it was leading to. We like walking in the hills, and started on it just for the pleasure of catching nice views. We saw lot of tibetan homes, with tall colorful prayer flags.

A distant temple framed by branches

A little while later we realized a lot of vehicles - autos and cabs - were going in the same direction, away from the town. There were a few coming back, but they didn't have passengers. There were no pedestrians or locals to ask, so we assumed that this way led to some point of interest. After walking for about 1 km, we found a colorful entrance - it was the Tibetan Institute of Performing Arts. Unfortunately, they did not allow visitors.

Tibetan institute of performing arts

On the way, and later as well, we saw a lot of trees bearing bright red flowers; it was later that we learnt that these were 'Burans' [Rhondodedron].

Rhondodedron

At one point, I heard the sound of water flowing through rocks, and after a little search, saw a waterfall in the distance.

Waterfall in the distance

After we had walked for almost 2.5 kms, the road came to an end - we had reached Dharamkot village. This was the starting point of one of the major treks into the higher hills. An almost broken road led to Bhagsu village in the valley. Not feeling able to walk almost 5 kms to Bhagsu and back, we sat down for a while before starting back.

Flowers blooming on the rock at the hill side

Tibetan ladies knitting in the market

There is a village called Naddi about 6 kms away from McLeodganj, famous for magnificent views of sunrise and sunset. We could hire a cab which would take us to the place and bring us back, and wait there for half an hour, for 200 Rs. This was something we found quite commendable there - the rates for taxis and autos for different points were fixed by the local auto union, and none of the drivers tried to make a quick buck by quoting a lower price. Even if we approached any auto or taxi driver, he would tell us the "rate" and ask us to get a receipt from the taxi operators' office.

View of the Dhauladhar range from Naddi

So, off we went to Naddi. A bumpy ride took us to the top of one of the hills which was taller than the neighboring ones, and offered an unobstructed view of the snow-covered Dhauladhar range, and of the Kangra valley. We clicked a lot of pics of the mountains, and waited for the sun to set in the valley. Almost an hour later, the sun showed no signs of setting soon, and a mist started settling. Since the driver started cribbing about the time as well, we gave up on lean hopes of a gorgeous view of sunset and returned.

And some more mountains ...

There was a small Tibetan snack bar, which had a seating on the open terrace - a terrace that overlooked the valley. The menu didn't have much to offer us [being vegetarians], but we ordered, even though with hesitation, a plate of momos and some tea, just to be able to watch the views. And it was from here that we got our sunset view!

The sun sets ...

And the day is over ...

12 comments:

Pijush said...

Very good post with lucid narration and original pictures. I liked the pics of the mountains, but for the distant pictures can be cropped to see it bigger. Good work, keep posting.

GMG said...

WOW! Great pictures - the mountains are superb - and fantastic post! Loved the photos and the narration...

Sigma said...

@Pijush: Thanks. Very rarely I touch up the pics to adjust brightness and contrast if it is really dark, but most of the times I prefer to keep them as it is :-)
[Just preference, no objections to touching up ;-)]
I have close-ups of the temple as well as the waterfall, which we visited later. The distant view is to give the perspective :-)

@Gil: Thanks a lot! Shall post more of the photos soon ...

Kalyan Panja said...

Stunning photographs, really brilliantly shot...In the narrative, apart from the other things, two things interested me very much, the Buddhist prayer flags and the Rhododendron flowers. Its quite a coincidence these are very common in another two beautiful places having lot of buddhist influence- Darjeeling & Tawang in Arunachal Pradesh. You can read about these two places in my blog- 'Dreamland'...Nice post!

Sigma said...

@Kalyan: Thank you. Hope to post the rest of the trip log soon :-)
I have been to Darjeeling and Gangtok a few years back. And Buddhist influence in even greater in Gangtok than in Darjeeling, but its presence in these two places is due to the same reason - the Tibetan settlements. And Gangtok has some really beautiful monasteries. I had a chance to visit Rumtek, and witness their morning prayer ritual. It was an experience to remember. I would have uploaded the pics, but unfortunately, back then, I didn't have a digital camera :-)
And I have read about those place on your Dreamland blog :-) I think you havent allowed comments on that blog though ?

Mridula said...

And what a day it must have been! That is one thing about travel that I like a lot. That some days stand out even after years.

Kalyan Panja said...

Yeah! waiting for the rest of your pics & to add buddhhist prayers & chants in the monasteries is another capitavating experience by itself & thats why I love to visit places having buddhist influences. I think you can comment there by following the link "leave a reply" just below the post. Thanks:)

Bendtherulz said...

It was good to see Mcleodgunj again - through your eyes...lovely pics... & good narration.

Sigma said...

@Mridula: Yes, it was quite a day!! :-)

@Kalyan: Me too ... I like the peace, and the bright colors used to decorate the temples. And htanks, I found the link.

@BTR: More to follow :-)

Pooja Aggarwal said...

Just had a talk with Sunit. He is in Naddi right now and apparently they are staying in some hotel which has views of the Dhauladhar range. When I asked him where exactly he was, he said - "Just go to shalini's blog. We step out of our hotel room and see the Dhauladhar range as shown in her pictures" :-)

Looks like he made good use of your blog.

Sigma said...

@Pooja: :-)) Yes, there were a few resorts with excellent views, right on the hill top! Glad that Sunit is enjoying his break! I haven't yet posted my pics of Bhagsunag, but do tell him to go there, and to the waterfall there ... it's a place one can spend hours.

Anonymous said...

amazing landscapes... loved those snow capped mountain ones...