More about Dharamsala - IV

The exhaustion of the journey and previous day's excursion took its toll, and we were not able to wake up early and go for a walk towards the higher hills, as we had originally intended to. The sun was already up by the time we walked out, and looked for a place to have breakfast. In case you are wondering, we usually prefer to have parantha [a kind if Indian bread] at some dhaba [small eating joint] enjoying the activity in the streets, instead of having breakfast at the hotel, in small places like this. Surprisingly, hardly any restaurant was open even at 9:30! This was only lazy town - shops didn't start opening till 10 am or so, and started closing down around 7:30 pm [including some of the restaurants!]

Temple in the central circle

As mentioned earlier, there are two narrow roads running through the market, separated by a single row of shops, many of which opened at both ends. At the starting of these two roads near the central circle, is the booking office for buses. Next to it is a temple, which is not really a temple, but it just houses a set of Buddhist prayer wheels. It was very colorfully painted in gold and bright hues, in the characterstic style. Due to the narrow roads, there was no possible way we could capture the front or the side of this temple in a single frame. We captured a part of the front in the morning light.

Prayer wheels in Tsuglagkhang complex

Finally, the town started to wake up, and we managed to find a place to eat. Then we walked to the Dalai Lama temple, called as Tsuglagkhang complex. From the outside, it does not look like a temple. We entered through a gate, a cluster of buildings, protected by a boundary wall. There were a few shops, a small building housing a museum on Tibetan history, and many closely constructed buildings. Small signs led us to the entry of the temple; hostels for monks were also housed in the complex, and visitors to the temple were advised not to venture there. The temple itself is a large building, with a lot of open space, which one could not have imagined looking at the complex from outside. The place was sparse, but very neat and peaceful. Taking pictures was allowed, and to our great surprise, inside the main building as well.

Lord Buddha - the main prayer hall

Though I wonder what were these sacks for. Is there a fear of a terrorist attack?

Avlokiteswara

Tara

Padmasambhav

Prayer/Meditation hall

While coming back, we visited the museum. Although we had heard and read about the Chinese invasion on Tibet, it was perhaps the first time we learnt of the extent of torment the Tibetan nationals had to bear. Many people lost their lives, and many suffered grave injuries [including amputations due to frostbite and gangrene], trying to escape the atroicities. It was really heart-wrenching to learn about their troubled past [as well as present].

The streets were lined with people selling stone [including semi-precious stones] jewellery, souvenirs, decorative pieces and good-luck charms. Most of the shops also carried the same things - this is the main source of income in a tourism-driven economy.

Selling knick-knacks outside Tsuglagkhang Complex

An ancient church, known as 'St. John's church in wilderness" is about 1 km away from the central circle, on the main road to Dharamsala. In the afternoon, we walked towards the church. This time, walking was made difficult due to the heavy traffic along the road, including buses, and shared taxis. They emit a lot of diesel fumes, and drive at a break-neck speed that may be considered as crazy given the narrow, steep, winding roads.

Tree-lined walkway from the entrance to the church

The church is hardly visible from the town, or even from the gate at the pathway that leads to the church, such is the dense growth of Deodar trees around it. I can imagine that more than 100 years back when it was constructed, the area must really have been a wilderness!

Church of St John in the wilderness

A memorial in the church compound

(I think it was for world-war soldiers)
(Btw, this picture is not taken/manipulated in B/W)

The church itself is small, and made of stone, and looks every bit the ancient part. Inside, it has a few pews, but beautiful stained-glass windows.

Stained-glass windows

Yet another shop in the market:

Treasure-house?

Beautiful end to another beautiful day